Run a test
One session = one (body, lens, display) triple, about 15 minutes once set up. Work through the steps in order. Everything here is from the capture protocol.
Pick your gear
Any Apple display works, an iPhone screen is fine. It's about mass production: every display is calibrated differently, but Apple mass-produces tightly calibrated panels, so it's the closest thing to everyone photographing the exact same picture.
Shoot RAW (add camera-JPEG too if you want the body's processing look, it's a separate, first-class measurement class). No tripod needed, handheld is fine. Registration warps every shot back onto the target pixel-for-pixel, so framing and tilt don't matter. Just take your clearest shot.
Display prep (do once, don't touch again)
- True Tone OFF, Night Shift OFF, auto-brightness OFF (macOS, iOS, iPadOS alike). Measured, not theoretical: True Tone shifted a display white ~6% redder at the sensor and drifts with ambient light, which silently breaks comparability.
- Brightness to a fixed notch, roughly 2/3. Note the notch. Never change it mid-session.
- Show each frame at exactly 1:1 native pixels, fullscreen, no UI. The viewer in step 4 handles this.
- Let the panel warm up ~15 min before the first frame (backlight drift).
Camera setup
- RAW (+JPEG). Base ISO. White balance LOCKED to any fixed preset (note which). Never auto-WB. Manual exposure. Handheld, so leave IBIS/OIS on.
- Aperture: wide open (lowest f-number). That's where a lens shows its character: vignette, glare, soft corners, and especially the bokeh you get on the points frame. By f/8 most lenses converge on their best behaviour and hide it. Want a stopped-down profile too? That's a second session, not a stricter first one. Phones and fixed-lens compacts: skip this, the camera decides.
- Focus by magnified live view on a corner marker, then switch to MF and don't touch.
- Get all four corner markers in the frame with a little margin. That's what registration needs. Framing and tilt don't matter beyond that; closer (more pixels per stimulus pixel) is more confidence.
- On the tone frame, expose so the 255 white block sits just under clipping (blinkies barely off). Bracket freely from there (see the shot list).
- Keep shutter ≥ 1/30s (OLED/PWM). In a dark room that's easy handheld.
Open the target on the display device
On the Apple display device itself (not this computer, unless this is the display), open the viewer and follow its 1:1 instructions. Scan the code:
or open
Shot list
Per lens. Tick as you go. Bracket freely: take a bunch of shots per frame at different shutter speeds until the set feels repeatable and complete. Ingestion keeps the best take per frame automatically and tells you what it rejected, so multiple takes are good, not a mistake.
Then a darkness check: one exposure with the display showing pure black. Anything visible is light leak, so fix the room. When you're done, add a photo of your rig in the last step, then upload.
Add a photo of your rig
One photo of the actual camera or phone you just tested, taken with any other device. It appears on the public entry so people can see what was measured, and gives us a weak sanity check on the gear. Encouraged, not required. You can skip it.
Drop a photo or click to choose
jpg · jpeg · png · tif
When you're ready, upload the session →